It’s been a while since I’ve been able to dive in, for various reasons… but I’m thrilled to be back today with another stained-glass project: stained-glass bookends {and a free pattern!} 

These are for my book-loving daughter, a girl after my own heart. I remember getting lost for hours in my own room, with a good read. She adores her books. While I do absolutely adore her space, I couldn’t decide where they should go. So many fun opportunities! 

I ended up using this iridescent glass and loved how it turned out! So much rainbow fun for her colorful space. 

Of course, I think they actually belong in her bookcase, but I love them here at her bedside…

And her dresser, too! These were definitely made for her space. 

You can see Emerson’s entire space here for all the details, in case you’re curious! In the meantime, I thought I’d share how I made these today! 

To draw this pattern, I started with this simple sketch on graph paper, but it eventually evolved into something more. I was really going for that art deco vibe with the design and knew I wanted as much symmetry as possible. 

If you’d like this pattern, be sure to check it out here!
It’s roughly 7 x 7 in size, before it was officially added to the bookend frames.
If you’d like the cricut cut out, you can get that here. 

But first, a history
{You’ll want to refer back to some of these if you’re just getting your toes wet in the world of stained glass. I highly recommend familiarizing yourself with the entire process so that you know what I’m talking about below. This post will merely serve as an outline form, while the in-depth process can be found below. I’ve covered them thoroughly in the past, so I’ll be hitting the points briefly in this actual post with the needed links for further reading:

• Check out all the supplies I listed + a little take on getting started, here.

• We covered the basics of stained glass, here.
It’s pretty in-depth with good videos referenced as well, so be sure to check it out.

More projects to check out: 

What you’ll need: 

Specifically for this project, I’ve switched to Tillery Glass Tools.
When they reached out and asked if I’d like to try their tools, I said of course! I had no idea what I was missing out on.
They’re available on Amazon,  and be sure to check out their website here!

Their tools are far superior for multiple reasons, but their glass cutter alone saved me HOURS of time. I also love their grozing pliers and so many other options! It can be easy to think you suck at stained glass if you don’t have the correct tools. They’re so efficient, we’re lifelong fans now! I’ve been meaning to try something with all my tiny glass scraps in the way of mosaics for a while, so I’m loving the other tools they carry as well. Be sure to check them out. 

• Select the glass that you’ll want from this project. I have a plethora left over from that massive door project, so you may recognize a lot of the colors, with a few scraps, too.

Other than the new + improved tools, along with my usual list above {if you’re new to all this} I used:
• this glass 
• 3/16 tape – this one is smaller than my usual, since I wanted a more delicate look with the lines.
• blanks for stained glass + template {I wasn’t in the mood for woodworking projects}
• butyl seal tape {for easy mounting – more on that below} 

Pro tip: double-check your printed pattern against the blanks—whatever size you end up using, you can always tweak it a little from there. This one comes with a specific template, so I printed out my pattern, cut it, and laid it on top of the template to make sure it would fit. You can also print on cardstock and place it in the blank, to make sure it will fit properly, and adjust accordingly. 

• Print and laminate your pattern- this one is small enough to do at home – for larger projects, I run to FedEx. Again, this file prints at 7 x 7

• Tracing – There are three ways to trace your pattern: You can see more of that process in detail, here.

1. Transparency film + sharpie + glue stick – Lay your transparency over your shape, trace + cut. Then lay it over your glass, and repeat to achieve the same shape.

2. You can also just lay your glass on top of the pattern, trace, and cut. Depending on how well you can see through the glass, is what I used

3. The Cricut method: I load the same pattern into my Cricut and cut it on vinyl. –This only works with smaller projects, but once you get the hang of it, it is a nice time saver. Check it out in more detail with this star ornament post, here. 

• Cutting + Grinding – Again, I definitely outlined it in more detail, here.  

Whichever way you choose, make sure you get that shape as tight as possible. Simply cut and grind it down, fitting each shape into place as you go. As always, when grinding, use protective eyewear, and I’d recommend a mask, too. 

This pattern was geometric but also organic. So, I secured each edge with tacks as I went. there was a little adjusting as I went, too. You’ll see more on that below.

Two important pointers here:

1. I usually recommend labeling your pieces as you go. Iridescent glass is a bit of a different beast, and some people hate it for that, as it’s harder to clean and tends to chip easily. I’m a sucker for color, so it won this round. Just don’t write on your glass but keep up with where the pieces go instead. You’ll thank me later.  This took forever to come off. 

2. Because it’s iridescent {if you decide to go that route} that means that the way the book ends face, will need to be mirrors of each other. Iridescent glass is only iridescent on one side. That means all your pieces you cut on one side are iridescent and really straightforward, while the other will be flipped over. I had to write myself a little reminder below as I went. Iridescent side DOWN on one of the pieces. That way they match with both showing correctly when you’re done. So, same pattern, just iridescent side DOWN on one piece. I was lost in a good podcast before I realized I’d cut four pieces incorrectly. BOOOOO. 

• Foiling + Burnishing

Once all your pieces are fitting oh-so-perfectly, {It’s okay if they’re not perfect, especially if this is your first time} it’s time to foil and burnish. I’ve always used a table foiler, but I’ve decided they might be more trouble than they’re worth. 

Again, you can find all of that outlined as thoroughly as possible, here. Be sure to read up on this post. I tend to clean up and grind each piece again, so that there are no shiny edges. It helps get that fit just right. I was delightfully surprised when I didn’t have  any leak-through to the other side during the soldering process. 
   

I’m a little rusty, so I found myself doing a few more re-cuts when I didn’t like the way they were hitting at this phase. 

• Soldering 

Again, I’ve outlined it all here.
{Please follow all safety precautions from open windows to ventilation systems here.} 

Here’s my little fume extractor. I had the windows up {and it was freezing} but that with the filter definitely helps keep fumes out of the way. 

It’s starting to take shape! 

Once I get my initial layer down, I go back over it with my soldering iron to get those lines as pretty as possible. I still need help with the “perfect” part of it, but I was pleased with my first go at this made-up pattern. I have found that the more I do this, the less hesitant I am to actually just dive in. So let this be an encouragement to you, if you’ve always wanted to try.

With a free form, it may help to dab a little of the solder on as you go, {after you apply that ruby fluid} to keep the points secured before going for the full monty on the entire look. Your end goal, {again covered more thoroughly here} is for your solder to have a slight curve to it on the finished piece. So feel free to work it as you go.

When you’re finito, your first side should look a little like this. 

Once it’s all soldered together and cool, you can lift it up to admire that handiwork!

For the sides, be sure to carefully brush on your ruby fluid, and gently touch the sides to spread the solder as you go. It will probably have built up on the sides, so you can spread it from there after the ruby fluid is brushed on. Careful not to burn yourself by rotating it as you go. 

Always check the temperature of your glass often. On smaller sizes like this, it only takes a moment for it to overheat. Your glass could break. Just know that it happens sometimes. 

This is the perfect moment to go ahead and polish + wax that first side of your glass just so that it gives the glass a moment to cool down, and you can get all that flux + excess solder off. 

• Clean it up {see more detail here}

Breaking it down, the order just goes like this for each side: 

1. Flux + Solder {You’ve already done this} 
2. Kwik Clean {rub it on and clean the glass / solder
3. Clarity – It’s a stained glass finishing compound {it really makes everything shine – technically it is wax – oh so satisfying} 

Flip it over, and you’re ready to do the second side. 

The polishing is the most satisfying part! Once it’s all cleaned up, you’re ready to add your patina.  

• Patina

• Then you’ll break out your Super Brite {finishes in black, copper + just leaving it silver} – I do find that the patina covers a multitude of sins. My piece is clearly imperfect, and the patina, if you choose to do so, really helps that look. 

• I use a combo of Q-tips + paper towels to rub it on, making sure to include all the sides. Remember that magic coloring book you had as a kid that had the clear marker, and when you drew on top, it made things change colors? This is that, for adults. 

Clean + polish again: Kwik Clean + Clarity again. Just rub until it shines. 

• Flip {carefully} + repeat the exact steps above from that first side. These final steps {soldering + patina + cleaning} can take a full day with a large window on both sides. I’m sure I’ll speed up over time, but just know it takes some time to finish. 

• Just a note on seepage: If you have a few little gaps, you may have areas where seepage of the Solder came through. I have yet to have a piece where I haven’t seen just a little on the other side, peeking through those cracks. I am getting better with each piece, though. Don’t freak. It’s usually easy to manipulate with your soldering iron, cover it up, and then move it back into place as you go. Patience is key. 

• A note on splatters: Don’t panic if the soldering gets on your glass. It dries and flecks right off. Just make sure you are aware that the second side {because you’re sealing the air into gaps?} tends to splatter a little. Thus the use of gloves for which you will be grateful. I already mentioned this above and clearly I can’t emphasize it enough. 

• For mounting, I used this window butyl. I scoured the internet to see what made the most sense, as I didn’t really care to glue it down. Take just a little, and play with it like putty/gum until it’s sticky. Then at each point {middle, and end points} I laid it inside the slot, then pressed the glass down. 

Tada! You’re done! 

It was really fun figuring all this out and watching it all come together. I hope you have as much fun as I did! But you don’t have to take my word for it… DUH DUH DUH!

As always, let us know if you have any questions, and have an inspired day!

Curious about more of our fun, free ideas? Be sure to check them all out here!